Woke at 5:30AM. Beds were fine and air conditioning works, clean and lots of hot water. Given the price and location central in the YT capital, it is kind of a dump. A traffic light is outside our window. Some hotels are poured concrete floors but some are wood construction; this is wood construction. At 1:30 AM room above occupant decided to walk around; don’t know where they were going, the rooms aren’t that big; went on for an hour. Turned on Tony Robinson’s walking tour of the Roman roads/settlements in England Lake District. He is so good (loved him as Baldrick in Blackadder). We eat our microwaved oatmeal, yogurt and applesauce. Coffee machine gives us our wake-up. It is cloudy outside and initially 48 degrees. Should not be too rainy as we pass the border and move on to Tok, Ak.
We pass free range horses and cattle grazing, horses beside the road. Supposed to be elk herd crossing, didn’t see any; they were imported in the 50’s and flourished. Areas of the road not cut back and have to watch carefully because the new sprouted browse brings moose. As large as they are they can appear and disappear in seconds. Moving north and west the road is not as good as leading to White Horse. We pass a native settlement with a sign at the road with blinking lights that no one is allowed to enter their village as Covid precaution. During the trip some wear masks but most don’t. The remote area locals tend to wear masks, health care access is difficult. We don’t stay in any crowded indoor areas and when we eat in restaurants we are seated far from others. And though the salad bars look tempting we don’t. In Canada much of signage is in French and English, less so in YT; more likely to see native language; but do have French speaking TV.
There are hot springs for bathing along the way but we don’t have time to stop. There is definitely earthquake activity in the area and one river is milky white from volcanic ash. We arrive in Kluane Park; the mountains in the background include Mt Logan, highest in Canada and second only to Denali. We have flown over it, very different from Denali; Denali is massive with two summits while Logan is pinnacle shaped with deep glaciers all around; the high peaks in the Kluane area (St Elias range) are increasing glaciers not receding. There is low cloud ceiling and spitting rain, appears new snow is falling in high altitudes in this St Elias range. We drive into a campground on the Kluane Lake shore where we camped in the past. The bear warnings are very clear and they are known to frequent. We stayed here in the past. They did not allow tent camping because they are bear tacos, but have since erected a high electric fence where tent campers can stay; the first in Canada. We eat our picnic (40 degrees) in a shelter and then walk on the lake shore. There is still a lot of ice on this massive lake and strong winds have blown ice walls onto the shore. Then we notice the biggest pile of bear scat we have ever seen and it is fresh. It can’t be coming from the small black bears we have seen, a grizzly must be casing the campground.
Animals today, bull moose, swans, hawks, black bear; and first mosquitos, small, voracious, relentless. Finally see wild flowers, yellow, pink and purple, small cluster bushes. The road is a variation of the old AlCan built for WWII; some of the old road exists and can be taken as a side road. We stop at an old Ak Highway bridge made out of local timber still intact. The river running beneath it is fast and deep, warning not to stand on the bridge, very impressive how they made it and still standing. A Wood Bison herd is in the area and they have found native hunting tools nearby and bison relics from 7000 years ago.
We pass over Jarvis Creek. The Jarvis name is found throughout the north but does not appear in any tales about bandits, dance hall girls, etc. LOL. At a road stop we create D and Q initials in stone on the side of the hill and a mini inukshuk to say we were here.
The temperature climbs to the 70’s and sun is very hot, we are out of the rain. Road after White Horse was pretty bad with pot holes, heaving and subsidence. Global warming is melting the permafrost and that affects the base of the roads, so really have to be on our guard. Lots of big burn areas; these areas are big water catchment for the many mountains/glaciers, so very boggy and used by many wildlife species especially migrating birds that journey as far as South America. We get through US customs without any problems, nearing Tok our destination for the night. We pass into our last time zone, we're now on Ak time, 4 hours change. This area is surrounded by the furthest eastern Alaska Range mountains and very beautiful. We stay at Tok RV Village; we have a small newly built log cabin. About 20 x 15, two double beds, small shower commode room, a desk, micro and frig. And a covered front porch with chairs and a picnic table for use. What a nice way to end the trip. We walk down the road to Fast Eddies; looks a little divey from outside but very sophisticated in side with excellent menu and Alaska brews on tap.
We talk to Brenna and they
have taken all our ordered furniture and mailed goods into the apartment. We arrive tomorrow and want to unload the car
into apartment and they will help; top floor with stairs, so knees will get a workout. We will
likely spend the first night at the Marriott and then set up the apartment the
next day. It is very hot in Anchorage,
predicted to cool and get some much needed rain. But we will be buying a box fan! Ak houses don't have AC. We won’t end the blog for a few days after we
get to Anchorage as there is still a story in how we get moved in! Dean's birthday #6 party this week, their main bathroom reno is nearing completion and they bought a property in Ninilnichik (sp?) on Kenai Peninsula to build a cabin, So lots of excitement happening for them!
It is cooling down and our
little cabin is cozy and quiet. A good
night sleep before we start the 300+ miles into Anchorage. Grateful for safe travels. Nighty night.
Total miles Driven so far: 4125