Awoke early to sunshine in Haines. Left hotel and drove out to Chilkat River and sure enough another grizzly sow was there with 3 two-year-old cubs, one was very light brown. She is much larger than the previous female we saw and cubs are too. The mother is fishing very expertly and the big cubs stay on the bank watching her. A couple human fishermen are near her and she ignores them. But the fishermen watch her closely. Don’t know what they’d do if she charged, she is too fast for them, it’s a big risk.
Drive our
Equinox onto the Alaska ferry and park in the large lower-level lot. It
takes an hour cruise versus 356 miles of car travel between Haines and Skagway.
We go to the top back deck to watch the scenery. It’s beautiful sunny day and we are just
going across Lynn Canal to another nearby fiord to a town called Skagway. Nothing of note re animal life, there doesn’t
seem to be the salmon run here, so no eagles or bears. Even no cliff dwelling birds. Skagway’s beginning is as a gold mining
town. The National Park owns many of the
historic buildings which are leased by businesses. It’s cruise ship town and there are two in
port. Many of the shops cater to the
cruise crowd with souvenirs and jewelry.
We visit the National Park building and watch a movie about old time
gold mining... This area was a trade route for Tlingit natives but changed
forever with the famous Chilkoot and Dalton Trails leading to gold fields. We look through a few shops and walk the town
in sun, sitting outside as much as possible.
One feels that within the next two weeks the town will roll up its
sidewalks and become a ghost town. Not much community spirit is felt. Lots of snowbirds and or seasonal staff
moving on with the cruise ships and those businesses.
We can see
the huge landslide that has blocked the cruise line terminal. It is still very precarious and looks like
more slide will happen. They say there is a plan to deal with it but we are
doubtful it can be in the same location.
Most of the
people return to the cruise ships, the shops are all closed save for a couple
bars and there is no one on the streets.
We walk to our hotel in the dusk, not even any streetlights. We are staying at the Historic Skagway
Inn. It used to be a brothel; we are
staying in Dottie’s room. It’s very old
and quaint, breakfast will be included.
We are
crossing into Yukon Territory tomorrow, another time change. The trees in this area are not changed
yet. We are in late summer not early
fall in these locations this far south and near the ocean.
Time for
sleep. Nighty night. 12 days to go.
Miles driven today: 19 took ferry from Haines to Skagway
Total miles driven: 890
