Awoke to beautiful dawn sky colors over the river. Hard to leave our little oasis. Breakfast at the hotel included and left the latest so far at 9AM. Heading south to Yellowstone. We continue on the high plain of cattle and crops and follow along the Missouri River. We pass through an area of ancient violent volcanoes, canyons of strange volcanic rock shapes. This was a huge active field going on for hundreds of miles. Montana is a geologist’s dream. Even though we rise and fall on the road we are always 3000 plus feet above sea level. We bypass the state capitol of Helena where they have dammed the river to make a huge lake. Further south we are just a few miles west of the Missouri headwaters. The mountain peaks that impact the flow are 10-11,000 feet in elevation. We enter another high plains valley of the Madison River. Cattle ranching and can see cowboys on horseback herding them. The plain’s grasses are a bright amber gold in contrast with barren tumble weed open range and dark green pines. We pass through the small town of Ennis known for fly-fishing. From this point up to and inside Yellowstone fisher people are out in huge numbers trying to catch trout. We have high peaks around us with light new snow. No glaciers here and no snow pack left from last winter. Snow pack is important to the arid land in order to live and irrigate. The mountains do not look that tall as we are always over 3ooo feet above sea level. We are in low 70’s with light prairie wind (which can blow hard; seeing drift fencing in some areas and chain up places for trucks). The sun is hot. The town along the way are tiny crossroads. Montana only has 1.6 million population.
In the
national forest, separate from Yellowstone, there is an area left from 1959
earthquake. It released tons of rock
over a campground, 28 people were never recovered and are buried under massive
piles of rock slide. The slide blocked
the river and created a lake, dead trees lining it show how far it rose. Yellowstone and the area surrounding it is
very quake active and the steep mountain sides are loaded with loose eroded
rock. It will happen again.
We reach West Yellowstone, a small town outside the gate to the park. It is the oldest national park in US and millions of visitors from all over the world come here. We talk with a ranger and get a road map for the next two days. the park mostly sits at 5000-8000 feet above sea level. As we are mid afternoon we decide to take in some of the park. It’s a huge park with two lane narrow roads. We stop for views of Firehole River canyon and it is impressive views. There are a lot of visitors today but manageable, different from summer. On to two major stops for geyser fields. Scary steam and bubbling, sometimes shooting scalding water and sulfur vapor. Some are mud pots, some are prismatic colors. We see bison roaming in the distance. There are brown and black bears, elk and a wolf pack in the north park. We go as far as the Old Faithful geyser. The iconic old stick structure lodge is still there but they have added a new lodge, a big building with cafeteria, gift shop and amenities complete with rocking chairs surrounding it. There is a new beautiful Education Center. OF is on it’s one and half hour eruption schedule. Cue the lone bison feeding on grass in front of it posing for pics. Aware but not bothered by the distanced crowd. OF erupts into a huge, high fountain of scalding water and vapors. It never fails in timing or to impress. Same OF Pat saw 60 years ago on family vacation. The bison had moved on, they know when it blows.
Leave the
park on our same route. Huge bison herd
is gathered along the road, cows, calves and bulls. Some are only about 50 feet away. It is hard to stop taking pics and watching
them. Then they all line up and forge
the river to get to their night spot.
Dusk is
falling and we want to get off the road before dark, it is narrow and the
animals come out. We get stuck in a few
places trying to negotiate the narrow road with lone male bison, trying to pass
and not make them mad. We haven’t seen
signs of rut. Can’t believe the park
would even allow visitors in during that dangerous time; the bison wander
wherever they want.
Leaving the
park It is very dark on the road to our hotel. We are staying at another
Springhill Suite 20 miles away. It is
brand new and very grand stone entrance.
The lobby is huge with high ceiling and a long table with lighted fall
décor. We can see a burning fire pit
through the windows to outdoor patio.
Our room is decorated same as Great Falls but without the beautiful
balcony view. We order a late dinner
from the bar and eat in the room. Long
day of driving, sightseeing and driving around bison. We have the northern loop planned for
tomorrow and it will take a day to do.
We are hoping to see some of the famous Yellowstone wolf pack. Unfortunately, if they get out of the park
boundary they will be shot.
So far, clear, warm
weather and the huge volcanic caldera that is Yellowstone Park has so far not
blown up into a cataclysmic explosion as it will someday. But not tomorrow. We have only had one day of light spitting
rain so far, not sure that will last for the whole trip.
Seven days
to go
Nighty night
Miles Driven Today: 398
Total Miles Driven: 3249
Sunrise over the Missouri River
